The Wine of Kings…

And the King of Wines!

I’m pretty sure that some of you know the wine to which this well-deserved sobriquet refers, but for those who might not have a clue…would it surprise you to know that this “royal” wine does not hail from France…or the USA!?   Rather, the very regal wine to which I’m referring is none other than the great red wine from Italy’s Piemonte (aka Piedmont) Region…Barolo!

 

Barolo’s Beginnings…Briefly

Going back in time, Barolo wines prior to the mid 1800s were on the sweet side and rather non-descript…until that is, some combination of the Marchesa Falletti of Turin and the Count of Cavour, Camillo Benso, decided to change that.  And did they ever!  Seeking a more distinguished red wine, French winemaker Louis Oudart was hired to create a new red wine that was more worthy of and befitting the Barolo name. The new, and dry, Barolo crafted by Oudart not only pleased the Marchesa, the Count of Cavour and the masses…but it was especially well received by the aristocrats in Turin, and particularly amongst the nobles in the House of Savoy.  And so it was that Barolo came to be called the Wine of Kings and the King of Wines.  

 

Modern Day Barolo

First, you should know that Barolo is a DOCG wine (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) which means “controlled designation of origin guaranteed.”  That distinction aside, to be labeled a DOCG Barolo, the wine must also be made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes and aged a minimum of three years.  Barolos designated as Riserva must be aged 5 years or longer – three in oak and two in bottle. For the longest time, Barolo wines were characterized by their high

 

 

 

tannic structure along with the reality that they had to be aged for a very long time before they would soften and become enjoyable — some for as long as ten years…or more.  Barolos also have been known for their complexity and their expansive range of exotic aromas and constantly evolving flavors once their “noble spirit” has been released from the bottle. And to this day, those attributes continue to define the classic, most coveted and most expensive Barolos.  For a classic Barolo, expect to pay $100 or more.

 

The Barolo Wars

With the passage of time, new winemaking techniques were introduced to produce Barolos that were softer, fruitier, more approachable sooner, and more affordable than were the “classic” Barolos.” And so began the so-called Barolo Wars – that pitted Traditionalist winemakers against Modernists or Reformers who thought they were making better, friendlier and more popular Barolos.  And for what it’s worth, the “wars” rage on but they are mostly wars of words…for each style of Barolo remains definitively distinctive and distinguished…and each can still claim fame as the Wine of Kings and the King of Wines!  To be sure, Barolo is one of those wines to add to one’s “Barrel List!” Nuovo Barolos can be yours for $30 to $50.

 

Barolo’s Baby Brother

There’s another “100% Nebbiolo” based wine from the Langhe area of Piemonte…and it’s known as Barbaresco.  It too is a DOCG wine, and to many aficionados it’s just as good as or better than many Barolos. Barbaresco wines must be aged two years – one in oak and one in bottle — and while the sibling can’t claim to be King, it’s certainly a fitting Crown Prince!  For a really good Barbaresco, expect to pay $40 – $50.

   Toast of the Month

“To the grandest nation earth can boast;
I love each state from coast to coast;
I love thee for thy freedom most;
My Country ‘Tis of Thee I toast.”

 (Fred Emerson Brooks)

Cluster of the Month!

Red

Blend

Tuck Beckstoffer’s   75 Wine Company   

The SUM    2010    In Sum…Symmetry Personified… Refined, Elegant and Luscious!

(Napa Valley, St. Helena, CA)/$20-$25 – Talk about your basic jewel of a wine…look no further!  Without question, this is one of the best $20 wines you’ll ever experience.  For years, I’ve been a huge fan of Tuck Beckstoffer’s Amber Knolls Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon…and though “technically”, this new blend from Tuck – with 75% Cabernet Sauvignon — could also be labeled a Cab, I think that would be an injustice, because what he’s crafted in this incredible expression of the winemaker’s art is a magical blend and mingling of flavors that defy the character of a single varietal.  Bolstered and artistically accented with 15% Petite Sirah and 10% Syrah, this vintage of The SUM was aged in 100% French oak and meticulously tended for 12 months. With floral aromas that can fill a room within 30 seconds of opening the bottle…and  legs that dance all night long… this kinda-hard-to-find gem never lasts very long on the shelves of any retailer…so get it if and when you see it!  You might even want to “tuck” a few bottles away for a few of those occasions when only a very special wine will fill the bill!  http://www.75wine.com/

 

Alicante Bouschet    (One of the few red varietals that have “red flesh!”) 

Francis Ford Coppola   Alicante Bouschet   2008   Fragrant, Fruity, Rich, and Supple!

 (Napa Valley — Oakville, CA)/$15-$17 — Coppola Winemaker of renown, Corey Beck, has really proven his mettle with this splendid rendition of a grape and single varietal wine that are almost unknown to most aficionados and enthusiasts.   Aside from its incredibly vibrant red hue…it’s also distinguished as one of only a handful of red grapes whose flesh is also red!  The German Dunkelfelder and the Georgian Saperav are two others…and they belong to a unique fraternity of

 

varietals known as Teinturier.    Another quite interesting dimension of this wonderful little grape’s

vibrant red color is its association with the US Prohibition period.  Winemakers discovered that they could dilute Alicante Bouschet wine by an amazing 50% without consumers noticing…and voila…twice the normal volume of wine, instantly!  There simply cannot be a better testament to the intensity of both color or flavor of the little red grape that could!  And now you know the rest of the story!  A true taste of American History awaits you!  Oh…as to its pronunciation, in France, it’s “Ah-lee-KAHNT Boo-SHAY”; and in Spain, it’s “Ah-lee-kahnt-TAY Boo-SHAY.

http://www.franciscoppolawinery.com/

 

Nebbiolo (The King of Grapes and the Grape of Kings)

Terre di Bo Barolo    2000    Sinfully Spectacular!

(Piemonte Region — Castiglione Falletto, Italy) $30-$40 – Barolo, which is typically referred to as the Wine of Kings and the King of Wines…is always made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes…and is a trademark wine from the Langa Hills outside the town of Alba in the famed Piemonte (Piedmont) wine growing region of Northern Italy.  I acquired my very first Barolo from the Wine Exchange in New York City during a visit I made to New York in 2005.  This is a wine that everyone wants and only a few can get…and when they do…they tend to hoard it.  If I can muster the willpower, I think I’ll sit on my remaining bottle for a few more years…as this is a wine that gets better with age and it can be cellared easily for 15 or more years.  By law, Barolo must be aged for a minimum of 3 years, 2 of which must be in wood (typically oak but Chestnut is also used by some Vintners on occasion).

http://www.albeisa.org/

 

Cabernet Sauvignon

Elizabeth Spencer  Napa Cuvée    2008    Rich, Complex, Beautifully Balanced, and Succulent!

(Napa Valley — Rutherford, CA)/$35-$40 – While it would be logical to think that Elizabeth Spencer is either the owner and/or winemaker…it would be wrong since there is no such person!  The name is actually contrived…and derived from the first names of Elizabeth Pressler and Spencer Graham who are husband and wife and also partners in making one of the single best Cabernet Sauvignons to come out of California…or anywhere else for that matter.  The O8 vintage is a perfect union of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.  Aged for 26 months in new 60 gallon French oak barrels, this is one of those “ultra premium” wines that one reads a lot about but can hardly find.  So, while you might not see this vintage on the get any one you can…because this one Cab that is always astounding!  http://www.elizabethspencerwines.com/

Courtesy of Jeff Dicks Real Estate in Heritage Wake Forest